I have decided to take a little break from playing poker. I did make SilverStar at PokerStars so maybe I will get a deposit bonus next month. But my recent sessions haven't been going so well, even in TD. (If Stars offers a TD tournament in the next few days I'll play, but otherwise probably not.)
So I've been catching up on Battlestar Galactica season two. I'm still enjoying it very much. However, note to future DVD packagers: if your show is in widescreen, the episode selection dialog should be usable from widescreen too. (Are there DVD players smart enough to switch back and forth between the two automatically?) Anyway, it looks pretty good on my TV in "zoom 1" mode--- I don't have a mode specifically labelled for anamorphic SD content but that one seems to match to within a few scan lines.
Comcast showed up today with an HD STB. The difference is certainly noticeable. Unfortunately there's the same problem switching between SD and HD channels; if the TV is in 16:9 mode for watching an HD channel then it needs to be manually switched back to 4:3 to watch an SD channel. It seems to me that the STB should have a mode for putting in the black bars itself rather than relying on the TV to somehow make things right. The STB output is 1080i.
The box doesn't have an HDMI output so I'm using composite; but there is a DVI output so maybe I will rewire things. My original philosophy was that all the sounds goes through the TV, then out the TV to my stereo, so that there was no need to fiddle with the stereo. But for DVI sources there's no correponding audio input in the TV--- you can get a converter from DVI to HDMI easily enough but it doesn't encode the audio--- so I might have to go back to plugging the various sound outputs back into the stereo. A Harmony universal remote would make this easier by switching between the audio sources for me.
I've also been working on my triple draw simulator for the first time in a while. I finally got over the hump that had been impeding progress. I didn't know how to implement a particular component, which is somewhat of an unusual situation for me to be in. I could specify what it was supposed to do, but I was blanking on how to make it work. So I settled on brute force and ignorance, and implemented a separate function for nearly every case I documented here.
So now I should be able to complete the 'optimal last draw' calculator I have half completed. (It needed this component to diambiguate flushes. Long story.) Then the next step is to try putting all the pieces together into a full triple draw 2-7 optimal play (*) calculator.
(*) Optimal play under face-up, hot + cold conditions. Which really isn't TD at all, but never mind that. Besides, a perfect-play calculator can always be tweaked later to heuristically exclude some lines that a real player would never take, like breaking a pat #2-#4 to draw to #1.